Could Sergio Marchisio have missed the appointment with Riesling? Of course not: not after having just measured himself against another absolute “must” such as Pinot Noir, the great lord of Burgundy, to be experienced in the Roero and, obviously, in the Marchisio Style version (i.e. in amphora). Organic, biodynamic and vinified directly in the ceramic, to remain “forever young” even as it ages. The same operation is now being carried out with the Rhine and Moselle vine, the prince of cold climates: what happens if you plant it on the hills of Castellinaldo, browned by the sun? Well, try it and believe it: the unmatchable, unmistakable elegance of Riesling, in this case, can shine with its own light even in its “fatter” guise, among the marl and clay of a very special terroir such as that of Roero, still fresh from maritime memories, capable of giving wines an unparalleled impetus.
«I wanted to test myself with Riesling, of which I have always appreciated the aromaticity», confesses Sergio Marchisio, incurable experimenter. A true pioneer: the first to make Arneis sparkling wine, the first to put Nebbiolo in amphorae (the fabulous Valmaggiore, with screw cap). Again: the first to use amphorae for Arneis as well. And now, the first – ever, once again – to bet on ceramic containers even for the very delicate Riesling. A white wine legendary for its finesse: refined, citrusy, with the characteristic mineral tones of hydrocarbons. Riesling is not like other whites (for example Chardonnay, which can take on a thousand faces); Riesling has only one, and doesn’t tolerate even a hint of makeup. «Very right: and it’s for this very reason – Sergio says – that I wanted to see how it would be, my Riesling».
Heads up: the experiment is still in progress. «We’re talking about the 2020 harvest: after harvesting and vinification, the Riesling of Castellinaldo is continuing its maturation». Not in large casks, of course: «It’s evolving in amphorae, from which it will not come out anytime soon». Bottling and marketing? «Not before the end of 2021, at the very least». We are talking about a very small quantity, still experimental: just 2000 bottles, made from 1500 vines. Special stuff, for enthusiasts. The bet? To let the best of Riesling shine through, making its varietal characteristics stand out, even if the grapes come from a long sunbath. «The rest is done in amphora». The optimism is palpable: «The first tastings confirm the expectations», says Sergio: «This Riesling will be a real surprise, I am sure».
